ZA50 Transmission and Crankshaft Shimming

Shims

Shims for the transmission and crankshaft can be found on McMaster-Carr or hand made with sand paper, time and a flat surface. Stock numbers for mcmaster carr are below.

clutch shaft diagram

 Clutch shaft:

• 99432A364 - 0.127mm - Shim For Die Punches, .005" Thick, 3/4" Od, .595" Id 
• 99432A366 - 0.381mm - Shim for Die Punches .015" Thick, 3/4" OD, .595" ID, packs of 10
• 99432A449 - 0.635mm - Shim for Die Punches .032" Thick, .595" ID, 3/4" OD, packs of 10

Gearshaft Diagram

Generally, you'll use one 1.5mm shim to take up a majority of the space and then use the .1mm shims for final adjustment.

Gear shaft:

• 98055A117 - Metric Spring Steel Shim - Din 988, 0.1mm Thick, 10mm Id, 16mm Od
• 98089A123 - Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Shim, 1.5mm Thick, 10mm Id, 16mm Od

Crankshaft Diagram

Crankshaft L17 side:

• 98089A230 - Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Shim .1mm Thick, 18mm ID, 25mm OD, packs of 25
• 98089A270 - Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Shim .2mm Thick, 18mm ID, 25mm OD, packs of 25

Crankshaft E20 side:

• 90214A135 - Metric 316 Stainless Steel Shim 0.1mm Thick, 20mm ID, 28mm OD, packs of 5
• 90214A236 - Metric 316 Stainless Steel Shim 0.2mm Thick, 20mm ID, 28mm OD, packs of 5

The only shims not available from McMaster are the 0.005mm shims for the L17 side - these are for the time being available from treatland.tv

End play float adjustment can also be done on the crankshaft by cutting multiple or individual case gaskets of differing thicknesses than stock. Measure your end play float and compensate with the appropriate paper thickness. When you're ready to cut your own gasket, us Mustachio's gasket template. Make sure to not scale the print to page size when you print and print it in actual size. You can download the case gasket template here. Stock gasket thicknesses are in the range of 0.2-0.25mm. The material I usually use ends up being a compressed thickness of 0.22mm. Card-stocks will get you differing thicknesses.

Tools

The only tool you really need to properly build these motors is the crankshaft shimming tool - everything else can be done with plastigauge or calipers and a straight edge. I highly suggest shipping your motor off with the gasket you intend to use to someone with the tool before installing your other bearing. Removing the bearings to change the shimming is difficult to do without damaging the bearing. Feel free to contact me and ship your motor to me.

The transmission shim tool is in my opinion not necessary with the use of  plastigauge which is available at any automotive store. Place a small bit of the plastigauge between two of the shims or the shim and bearing and use the gauge to measure the gap. I usually place two pieces 180* out or even four pieces 90* out to make sure that equal pressure is applied to the plastigauge. Make sure to install the gasket and torque all of your case cover bolts down to spec where you will be running it, then and only then, remove your case cover and measure the plastigauge. Adjust your shims according to your readings and re-measure. Continue until your readings are reasonable. I usually shoot for tighter tolerances the more power I'm putting through, but as long as you're within specs, you're good.

Mid January Stuff

So, it's mid January. I've come back the past two weekends to work on stuff. Most of my time was consumed with my sister's car, during which time all the family's Volvos were in the driveway of my Dad's house on a rare occasion... Last time this happened it was dark and photo opportunity was terrible. Got some great shots this time.

When I got back to my own things, I reassembled the CB125 with new rings and fixed the old tach cable with a junkyard speedo cable. The tach works, but the 125 still hits a wall at 55mph. It runs better, but still like crap. New cylinder is in order this summer (or maybe an overbore piston?). I just drilled out the old fitting that went in the case, and soldered the "new" cable in. I pulled it out of some 70's muscle car.

 

Then before I left last weekend, I welded a new bung on the maxi!!! Woooo! Doesn't leak either! This weekend, I got to finish it up and take it for a ride. It was glorious. Check out the top speed... I've got 4mph left to find... 55 was my old all time top speed and I even touched 60 (indicated) once. That was with my homoet 6p though and I'm running an estoril chamber now. I also almost got hit in my dad's neighborhood because some idiot was not paying attention and almost hit me head on while I was sitting still at a stop sign...

Not pictured, is finalized baffle mounting for the Derbi, time spent building a failed concept design I've been working on and some aluminum welding I did with my lincoln pro-mig 135 (it's pretty horrible, but usable). Took forever playing with the settings to get it to feed without jamming and I'm welding with ArCO2 AND it's filthy aluminum (I did scrub it with a wire brush at least) but it's promising... the spraying thing really was weird... because there's no puddle and HOLY ballz batman, turn the wire feed speed up to 11!

Currently contemplating getting a second bottle for aluminum shielding and a second hose/gun/etc so I can swap quickly between steel and aluminum. I have a feeling I'll be wanting to swap often enough I won't be wanting to change liners.

Volvo ETM Repair, Cleaning, Rebuilding Service 1999 2000 2001 2002

Why You Should Give Cleaning a Chance No need for reprogramming Retain the safety of dual TPS sensors on the ETM Save $ PLEASE NOTE: You are responsible for all shipping charges. I will provide you with my shipping address when you purchase service You must provide the unit with the computer you want to keep and the donor ETM with good sensors if going with the computer swap route. I will let you know how much return shipping will be once the repairs are completed Should your resistor strips be beyond cleaning, I will offer to work with you to install a Sacer or XeMODeX unit, find another ETM to install your computer into or return your unit disassembled. All return shipping is done via. FedEx fully insured and trackable ground shipping Business addresses are cheapest to ship to, I ship to residential, but your shipping will be less if return address is a business. Service Options

Computer Swap $50.00 USD Sensor Cleaning $75.00 USD

Turbo or NA

Turbo N/A

OBDII Codes (Optional)

1999 Volvo ETM replacement/swap/repair Sacer XeMODeX alternative 2000 2001 2002

UPDATE: As of February 2015, this repair is still working great. No more ETM codes on the S70.

So, if you've stumbled across this post, you are exploring cheaper options than the XeMODeX, Sacer, $1100 volvo dealer quote and even the $150 programming fee for swapping in a used unit.

The ETM failed on this car because the TPS was loaded with oil. The crankcase breather on this car had clogged and the vehicle was leaking badly from the oil seals, resulting in the plug chambers on the head being full of oil and causing misfires and a failed crank position sensor due to oil saturation.

I originally disassembled the unit to clean it. Once clean, it worked perfectly. I hadn't gotten all the codes with the TPS repair (although, all the ETM related codes went away after the cleaning) and ended up diagnosing the remaining faults as a MAF. After MAF replacement, all codes were gone and the car ran phenomenally.

I then had to remove the ETM to reseal it after messing with it, and upon reinstallation (at 2am) I put it in backwards and the locating pin for the throttle body broke a chunk out of the throttle body housing.

I ordered a known good ETM from ebay from a running vehicle and swapped the brain from the original, now damaged ETM into the good throttle body with already clean sensors.

Here's how to remove the brain from the ETM. (or you can send your unit to me and let me clean it with special potentiometer cleanser/lubricant and reassemeble and reseal - see below)

Step 1:
Gingerly remove the aluminum cover. Work your way around bit by bit, edging and breaking the silicone seal. DO NOT bend the plate up because you will have to reuse it.

Step 2:
Use a dremel attachement or screw driver to remove the potting compound around the leads to the brain. They are pretty heavy duty and I never came close to breaking them, but you must still be aware of them.

Step 3:
Once the potting has been cleared from both sides, cut the connections with a dremel tool. They are spot welded from what I can tell and there is no desoldering them.

Step 4:
If you are just removing the caps for cleaning, skip this step.

If you are just swapping the computer, skip steps 5 and 6 and repeat removal for the ETM with good sensors so you can install your programmed computer into the good body.

Remove the screws on the pigtail for the harness connection, and the four screws holding the computer. The computer should now slide out. Be careful not to break the connection between the computer and the pigtail - ensure they come out together at the same speed or remove them one at a time (this will require re-soldering).

Step 5:
Remove the end caps containing the potentiometer. NOTE: The side with an oblong cap has connections in it for the motor that actuates the ETM motor. Remove that cap (it is fused on, but should break free) and desolder the coil winding from the cap before removing or you will BREAK THE MOTOR.

Step 6:
Once the caps are removed, remove the tin retaining caps for the sweeper arms to get at the resistor strip and arm - clean both, taking great care not to damage the sweep arms. Clean the sweep arms and the resistor strips. Inspect for wear. If there are signs of a damaged strip, you can reassemble, but cleaning may not be of use.

Step 7:
Reassemble the unit. Use proper soldering techniques to ensure a good connection with the brain and then motor and two sensors. Use gas resistant RTV to seal the unit.

Targus USB 3.0 Super Speed Docking Station Won't Connect ACP70US ACP70USZ - USB 3.0 Dual Video Dock

I purchased this about a year and a half ago. It has been terrible and troublesome to stay connected. There is a warranty replacement out there for the troublesome ones.

Despite firmware updates and the most recent drivers mine still wouldn't connect to an external monitor.

I called customer service and there is a replacement available for item #50 units. New replacements units are supposed to be #60 or #61. Hopefully the new one is better than the old one.

Customer service number is     1.800.283.6325

You pay shipping there and they pay the shipping to you for the replacement, so you're out the cost of shipping it to them, but at least maybe you'll end up with a functioning dock.